Sunday, May 24, 2015

The Art of Ignoring Part One: Negative Punishment is Positive!

Today we are going to talk about punishment (dun, dun, DUN!). The word punishment has very negative connotations, especially in the positive dog training world. But when we break punishment down, we can see its usefulness. Whenever we are working with an animal, it is helpful (and more accurate) to think in terms of rewarding or punishing a behavior rather than the animal. We aren't just rewarding our dog for sitting, we are rewarding the sitting behavior. We aren't punishing our dog for barking like crazy, we are punishing the crazy barking behavior. In training, we can increase a behavior with reinforcement or we can decrease a behavior with punishment. In general, positive dog trainers like to focus on rewarding wanted behaviors as opposed to decreasing unwanted behaviors. But punishment can be useful if done correctly. In fact, many people (and even trainers) punish behaviors without even realizing it!

Example: A puppy runs up to me on the first night of puppy class. She is very excited to say hello! She jumps all over me for a few seconds. I completely ignore her until she is sitting. Then I lavish her with attention. Hello cute puppy! By the second night of class, the puppy greets me by sitting politely at my feet.
Polite, sitting puppy

What just happened here? I obviously rewarded the sitting behavior and was rewarded myself with a polite puppy greeting a week later. But what about the jumping behavior? Did you notice that I punished that behavior?

In terms of animal behavior, negative means to remove and positive means to add. Positive reinforcement (again, reinforcement increases a behavior) adds something that the dog wants. Attention, verbal praise, food, toys, etc. I positively reinforced the sitting behavior with attention and verbal praise. Negative reinforcement removes something that the dog doesn't want. An example of negative reinforcement would be forced fetching, where a trainer pinches a dog's ear until they open their mouth. When the dog opens their mouth, the trainer lets go. This reinforces the mouth opening behavior by removing something that the dog doesn't want (pain!).

Rana's sitting behavior is positively reinforced with a doggy doughnut

Punishment follows the same rules. Negative means to remove, positive means to add. But in this case, the "evils" are flipped. Positive punishment adds something that the dog doesn't want. Pain, verbal or physical corrections, loud noises (like a can of pennies), spray bottles, etc. Negative punishment removes something that the dog wants. Withholding attention, treats, etc. are examples of negative punishment. Time-outs (which were discussed in another blog post) are another example of a negative punishment. The dog is removed from the situation (time-out) and then attention is withheld until the dog is released from the time-out. Most positive dog trainers use negative punishment, because it doesn't require the use of force, pain, or intimidation. A "positive dog trainer" is simply someone who refuses to use pain, force, or intimidation to train dogs. In this way, negative punishment is actually "positive!"

So look back at the puppy example. I applied a negative punishment (withholding attention AKA ignoring) to the jumping behavior. And I applied positive reinforcement (attention) to the sitting behavior. And absolutely no force, pain, or intimidation was used on the puppy! This is the art of ignoring, folks. In later blog posts I will address how to successfully ignore your dog in specific situations. We will also talk about extinction bursts (tantrums!) and cases of natural negative punishment in dog-to-dog interactions (hint: go look at the bite inhibition blog post. Do you see a negative punishment?). Have a great Memorial Day weekend and as always, thanks for reading! 


We Have an Instagram Account!

Need a Rana photo fix? Clicker Collies officially has an Instagram account! And I am currently in the process of filling it with lots of Rana pictures. Find us by searching for clickercollie or #clickercollie. Or follow this link------>https://instagram.com/clickercollie.

Browsing Instagram: Great for those mornings when you don't want to get out of bed ;-)



Friday, April 17, 2015

Feline Friday: "Dogs Annoying Cats with Their Friendship" Video

Rana and I are busy getting ready for my brother's wedding. She is getting ready to spend the weekend at my parent's house, and I am getting ready for my future sister-in-law's bachelorette party. So today's Feline Friday will be very short!

Today I am simply going to share a cute cat/dog video. You can watch it below or follow this link to the youtube page. Enjoy the video. But be sure to watch for body language in both the dogs and the cats. How do we know the cats are annoyed? At the end, how do we know the cats are happy? What about the dogs? Watching for the more subtle body language signs in animals is important. A tail flick in a cat can mean, "I am annoyed!" A tongue flick in a dog means, "I am nervous!" Whenever you watch an animal video, watch the body language. It will help you to better identify these signs when you are observing them in person.



Friday, April 10, 2015

Happy Spring!

Rana and I went to the neighborhood park for a little spring photo shoot last week. I WAS going to post these photos last Saturday before Easter but blogger crashed! And then I forgot :-P Whoops!  Oh, well. I hope you enjoy these photos as much as Rana and I enjoyed taking them!




Rana kept "herding" the eggs to one side of the basket!


I tried to get Rana to take the basket. This was the photo I got XD

I love her sheepish grin in this one!

Totally relaxed. Just chillin' with her fellow bunny.



Rana crosses her paws on cue!


Bunny Rana did some rock climbing :-)



We hope you all have a wonderful weekend! And Happy Spring!

Feline Friday: Scratching

Scratching furniture is a common "behavioral issue" that cat owners often complain about. This is a very serious issue and one that is near to my heart. Unfortunately, many cat owners resort to declawing their cats in order to protect their furniture. There are better ways to keep kitty from scratching the furniture! Today's topic of focus is protecting your furniture while letting kitty keep those claws!

Dib proudly shows off his claws!
First, I am going to tell you why declawing is awful. Contrary to what your vet may lead you to believe, declawing is not like a toenail trim. It is an amputation. When a cat is declawed, the vet cuts through the bone, tendons, skin, and nerves at the first joint. The vet removes bone. This is like having your fingers chopped off at the knuckle...only worse! YOU don't walk on your fingertips. But guess what? Your cat DOES! When you declaw a cat, you change the way they walk. This can wreak havoc on the cat's hips, joints, etc.

Picture retrieved from pawproject.org
Declawing can cause severe lifelong pain for the animal. This can lead to all sorts of other behavioral issues such as litter box avoidance and biting. For more information on why declawing should be banned, please visit pawproject.org.


So what are we to do instead? Well fortunately for our kitties (and our furniture), there are lots of wonderful, humane alternatives to declawing!

Scratching is a normal behavior for a cat! 

Train your cat to use a scratching post: Like I said last week, cats can be trained! Provide your cat with lots of appropriate scratching posts and praise your cat for using them. You can also rub/spray catnip products on the scratching posts to encourage your cat to use them. Scratching is a normal behavior for a cat. Just like we need to provide things for our dogs to chew, we also need to provide things for our cats to scratch! I personally love the cheap, flat cardboard scratchers. But there are lots of different cat scratching products out there. If your cat doesn't like one scratching post, then try another!


Dib LOVES his cardboard scratching posts!

Use double-sided sticky tape to discourage scratching on furniture: Cats hate sticky things! Place double-sided sticky tape on the corners of furniture to discourage scratching, and place an appropriate alternative nearby. The idea is to get kitty thinking, "YUCK! That couch is AWFUL to scratch! My paws stick to it! This lovely kitty post over here is much nicer. I'll use it instead." Eventually, you can remove the double-sided sticky tape. If you ever notice kitty scratching on the furniture, just calmly go get the tape and reapply it. The best thing about the tape is that it works when you aren't there. Cats are very smart creatures! When humans yell or use spray bottles to get kitty to stop doing something, she only learns not to do that thing when the humans are watching! The sticky tape lets the cat decide that furniture is no fun to scratch. And remember, training cats is much more effective when they think they are training you! Or in this case, when the cat gets to choose what it wants. We can help influence the cat's decision by providing appropriate alternatives (scratching posts) and deterrents (sticky tape). 

Dib would rather scratch on his cardboard post than a sticky couch corner!
Trim your cat's nails regularly: To reduce the damage that kitty's nails can cause, be sure to keep them nice and short!

Use nail caps: Nail caps ("Soft Paws") are a human alternative to declawing. Nail caps are soft vinyl tips that slide over the cat's nails. They are painless, and they allow the cat to extend and retract their claws naturally. Many cats will still make the motion of scratching while wearing nail caps! Nail caps can be purchased at most pet stores and can be applied by the owner, vet, or cat groomer. Nail caps are great in situations where the cat's nails are causing damage to themselves or others. For example, last spring Dib had very bad allergies. He was very itchy! He was scratching himself so much that he was actually causing damage to his neck! While his allergy medicine was kicking in, we put nail caps on his back feet to prevent him from hurting himself. Nail caps can also be used when a human member of the household cannot handle being scratched due to medical reasons. This means that human medical issues are not an acceptable reason to declaw a cat. Again, declawing can cause severe, lifelong pain for the animal! 

Play with your cat: Many behavioral issues in dogs and cats are caused by boredom. The saying, "a tired dog is a good dog" holds true for cats, too! Keep kitty out of trouble by playing with her until she is tired. But don't throw a 99 cent mouse toy on the floor and expect your cat to tucker herself out. Cats are natural hunters! Use interactive toys like "Da Bird", "Neko Flies" and "Go-Cat catcher" brand wands. 

"Keep Kitty Out Of Trouble" Kit: Cardboard scratcher, Neko fly wand, and go-cat catcher mouse refill.

So those are my tips for preventing problematic scratching, protecting your furniture, and keeping your cat's claws where they should be (on the cat!). As always, thanks for reading! 



Saying Hello! Part One: Rules for Greetings

Doggone safe is an organization dedicated to preventing dog bites. They regularly share links to articles on preventing bites. Today they posted an article about children greeting dogs. You can find that article here:
http://www.dogsandbabieslearning.com/2010/02/25/may-i-pet-your-dog/

It inspired me to make a series of blog posts about dog greetings. We want our dogs to greet other humans politely and safely. But to ensure the safety of everyone involved, the humans must follow some rules, too! Today's topic of focus: Rules for interactions.

Rana LOVES kids!

Rana LOVES attention, especially from children. But I still insist that everyone (parents, children, me and my dog) follow some rules during interactions. When someone asks, "Oh what a beautiful dog! May I pet her?" I say absolutely. Then I tell Rana to "go say hi." She knows to wait calmly for this cue. Without it, Rana is not allowed to greet a strange human or dog. When given the cue, she is to approach the human (NOT the other way around). This gives her and I much more control. I watch for loose, wiggly body language but also calm, polite behavior.

Your dog should look happy and relaxed when greeting others! 

Rules for the dog: You must be given the cue to "go say hi." You must be polite and calm. But enjoy yourself! No need to stay in a perfect sit, but four feet must be on the ground at all times. NOTE: In future blog posts we will talk about how to prevent jumping up during greetings. This DOES require us to ask our dogs to sit for greetings (a dog who is sitting cannot jump up). But when your dog is able to greet politely without jumping up we do not have to insist that they sit perfectly during interactions.

Rules for me: I will pay attention to my DOG during interactions with other people. I will watch for signs of stress (licking lips, yawning, stiff posture etc) and will remove my dog immediately if she shows any of these signs. I will watch her to make sure she is behaving politely.  I will also watch the human. If petting seems to rough at any time, I will remove my dog. If at any time the human or dog break the rules, it is my responsibility to end the interaction.

Rules for those petting my dog: Please get permission before petting my animal. Sometimes if I notice you admiring my dog, because she loves attention SO much, I may ask if you would like to pet her. You may say no. If you say yes or if you ask me if you may pet my dog, I will instruct my dog to go to you. Please pet her gently. Do not hover right above her face (scary for most dogs but for mine, an irresistible temptation to do a little hop to kiss your face. I will have to end the interaction if this happens as it is not polite behavior from the dog). If at any point I notice you petting my dog roughly, hovering above her face, or if at any point I notice stress signals from her, I will end the interaction.

So those are my rules for saying hello to a strange human! Everyone (dog and human) involved must be calm and polite.


Friday, April 3, 2015

Feline Friday: NEW Weekly Post! Cat Training Tips

I have decided to add a weekly segment on cat-related things. I want to focus on training of course, but Feline Fridays may also include posts on cat behavior or links to cat-related articles.

"We need to talk. Your blog is lacking in feline-related posts."
I will kick off our new Feline Friday segment with a brief post on cat training. Yes, it IS possible to train your cat! But there is definitely an art to cat training. Cats are certainly not dogs. They learn differently than dogs. Their motivation is different. I like to joke that the trick to training a cat is to make the cat believe he is training YOU! Cats take great pride in knowing that they have successfully trained their human to dispense a tasty treat when they cue them with a paw lift or a sit. In reality, cats are rarely motivated by a desire to please their human (unlike dogs). But like dogs, cats will work for the right treat. Which brings me to my first tip...

Tip #1: "Crack, not crackers." If you read my post yesterday about engaging your dog in a training session, you may remember this saying. Again, I apologize for the drug reference. But we want our animals to be absolutely ecstatic about their treats! This holds especially true for cats, who rarely care about pleasing their human. If your cat isn't excited about that piece of food in your hand, you're unlikely to get very far. The trick to training any animal with food is to find that "high-value" treat. Like dogs, cats typically find smelly, high-protein, high-calorie treats to be the highest value. I personally love dried bonito flakes. They are cheap, come in large tubs, contain only one ingredient (tuna), and are easy to break into smaller pieces for training. But you can use any food item that is safe for kitty consumption as long as your cat is excited to work for it

Tip #2: Follow that treat! I have found lure training to be very effective when working with cats. Lure training is when we use a piece of food or toy to get an animal to move in a way that we want. The key is to get kitty's nose right on the treat. Then eventually fade the lure by holding the treat in the other hand and moving your original treating hand as though you still have a treat. This hand movement then becomes the cue (more on that in another post).

Tip #3: Clicks for Kitty! I have also found clicker training to be highly effective when working with cats. Communication is especially important with cats, who will easily get bored and trot off if they get too frustrated. Which brings me to the next tip...

Tip #4: No mad faces during cat training! Cats aren't generally considered as intuitive as dogs when it comes to human emotions. But it is always a good idea to avoid training an animal when you are frustrated, upset, etc. The same goes for the cat! Try to end your training sessions before you or your cat gets frustrated. Also, avoid training Kitty when she seems like she is in a bad mood. Oh, and never use fear, intimidation, or pain to train your cat! This is true for any animal, but especially for your cat. Even yelling at Kitty may turn her off to training! 

Tip #5: Keep it short...really short! So in our last post, we talked about keeping our dog training sessions short to ensure that Fido stays actively engaged in the lesson. This is also extremely important in cat training. With dogs, I recommend keeping your sessions between five and ten minutes long. With cats, I recommend trying to keep your sessions under five minutes long. Cats have extremely short attention spans. If you bore your dog with a long training session, he may start to tune you out a bit. He may get distracted by a nearby toy, or decide that he reeeeally needs to scratch behind his right ear for awhile. Cats, on the other hand, rarely tolerate being bored. They will turn tail and trot off! So keep your cat training sessions as short as possible, end on a high note, and leave your cat wanting more. 

That's it for now. I hope you enjoyed our first Feline Friday post. As always, thanks for reading!

Thursday, April 2, 2015

Teaching Connections: Engagement

One of the wonderful things about being in college to become a elementary school teacher while training dogs at the same time is that I can make lots of amazing connections between the two professions. Every time I learn something new as a future school teacher, I feel that it makes me a better dog trainer. And vice versa. And while children and dogs are very different, there are certainly connections that I can make between the two professions. At the very least, learning how to work with little humans is beneficial to me as a dog trainer because, well...dog training is more about training the owners than the dogs. And dog owners are human ;-)

One thing that we talk about a lot as future educators is the concept of student engagement. Is the student engaged in the lesson? How can we engage the student in the lesson? Engagement is simply what it sounds like: is the student actively participating in the lesson, and are they excited about the lesson? When students are engaged in the lesson, they are obviously more likely to benefit from the lesson. It seems fairly common sense. Even as adults, we are much more likely to retain information if we are engaged in the lesson at the time. Think of someone telling you a story. If you are distracted or even bored with the story, you are much less likely to remember it later. Well the same thing goes for dogs!

Rana is focused!

Engagement in dog training is not something I hear about often. Sure, we talk a little about making sure we have the right treat, that our training sessions are short and sweet, etc. But I never hear people talking about the importance of engagement in dog training on the same level that we talk about it in terms of child or even adult education. So how important is engagement in dog training?

Short answer: Very.

Anyone who has ever tried to get their dog to learn something in a crowded basic obedience class can tell you, it is extremely frustrating when your dog is distracted. I make a point to tell my students that group classes are not a nice, sterile environment. The other dogs, strange people, and loud noises can be very distracting for some dogs! So I tell students, "if this is not working in this environment, that is okay. Try it at home, let me know how it worked for you when we meet next week. This is normal!" Obviously, in cases where dogs are distracted, they have trouble learning commands in the first place. Even if they do get the command in a distracting environment, they might not retain the lesson. This is partially a problem with engagement. The dog is not engaged in the lesson!

So how do we ensure that our dogs are engaged in our training sessions? Here are seven of my tips for keeping your dog excited and focused while learning!

 Tip #1: Work on the 3 Ds in the right order. Duration, distance, THEN distraction! Distractions are a big problem for dogs. Whenever we dog trainers start working on a command, we talk about the 3 Ds of dog training. They MUST be done in the right order. Duration. Distance. Distraction. When working on stay, for instance, we start with duration (increasing the time that a dog can stay), then distance (walking away from the dog for a step, then two, then three, etc), and finally distraction. We start each D on "easy mode" and slowly increase what we expect from the dog. We start with a few seconds for stay duration, then add more as we work on it. We start with a step for distance, then slowly work until we can walk across the room. We add small distractions (some noise in the other room or the owner making a small but unusual movement like hoping on one leg) and move on to increasingly more difficult distractions like the owner suddenly running in the opposite direction, throwing food near the dog, or having another dog walk by. Unfortunately, many owners try to work on Ds in the wrong order. Sometimes they have control over it (like when an owner tries to teach "stay" by walking backwards while chanting the command before they have worked on duration). Sometimes owners do not have any control over it (like trying to work on a new command in a distracting basic class). Either way, this can pose issues for a dog's engagement in the session.

Tip for engagement #1.5: Eliminate as many distractions as possible during the early stages of training. You will never have a completely distraction-free environment. But if you are working on a down/stay at home, and a firetruck goes blaring down the street and your dog gets up to sing to the truck, go ahead and stop working until the distraction has passed. Don't get frustrated, and don't try to be louder than the firetruck. Remember to work with your dog, not against him. If you know that your cat walking by is a distraction for your dog, then put kitty in another room during training sessions. If the cat isn't a significant distraction for your dog, then don't worry about it.

Tip for engagement #2: "Crack, not Crackers". This is a phrase I've heard multiple times in the dog training world.  I apologize for the drug reference, but when we are talking in terms of engagement and food motivation, you truly want your dog to act as though he is "addicted" to the treat. You want him to be excited to work for that treat, because then he is actively engaged in the session! Dry dog biscuits ("crackers") probably won't engage your dog in the training session. Instead, you need to bring out what is called a "high-value" treat ("crack"). The value of the treat is determined by the individual dog. In general, stinky, high-calorie treats like liver and cheese are considered high-value. But I have met dogs that have treat preferences some might consider a bit...odd. I knew a dog that would do ANYTHING for a piece of banana! The trick is to find a (safe) treat that your dog L-O-V-E-S! And use a tiny bit of that treat (no need to give your dog the whole banana, just a little piece at a time will do). The other thing that is important about food is that the smell of food floods a dog's brain with feel-good chemicals like dopamine and activates the learning part of the brain. This is a very good thing when we are trying to engage our dogs in a training session!

High-value treats are very important in training!
Tip for engagement #3: Play games! This is something that we use quite often in child education. Children learn best through play. Games are exciting, rewarding, and engaging. They also create a fun, positive learning atmosphere. All of this holds true for dogs as well. Learning games help you to have fun. And when you are having fun, your dog is having fun, too! Games help your dog stay engaged in the lesson. For some ideas of learning games you can play with your dog, check out the intro to loose leash walking and intro to recall blog posts.

Dogs love to play and run! Take advantage of that in training. 

Tip for engagement #4: Incorporate physical activity. This is another thing that we implement a lot in child education. Physical activity is important for any animal, dog or human. Exercise floods the brain with feel-good chemicals, lowers stress, and just generally helps us to stay healthy! Incorporating physical activity into your dog training sessions is fun for your dog, and good for his health, too! And it is as easy as simply running a few steps, asking for a command, giving the treat, and then darting off again. Your dog will happily follow you (especially if you have a high-value treat). You become unpredictable. Your dog never knows where you will run off to next or what you will ask for when you stop. All of the sudden, your boring sit-down-stand drill exercises become fun and engaging! You can also incorporate this kind of training on walks, hikes, etc. Many training games (such as the recall game) also incorporate physical activity. As an added bonus, training sessions that include exercise work a dog's mind and body, making for one tired pooch! And as the saying goes, "a tired dog is a good dog!"

A tired dog is a good dog!
Tip #5: Keep your training sessions short and sweet. It is no secret that dogs can have short attention spans. Don't push your dog to the point of boredom by insisting on a super-long training session. In general, five to ten minutes is a good length of time for a session. Sometimes I go as long as 15-20 minutes with Rana, but she is a professional and has two years of experience putting up with me. If your dog starts to act bored, let him take a break. Go for a walk, let him out in the backyard, etc. You can always try again a little later. One of the secrets of keeping your dog engaged in a training session is ending the session with him wanting more. If you put down the treats, walk away, and find that your dog is following you with a disappointed, "hey, get back here!" look on his face, then you have succeeded! Get to know your dog and find out his "stamina" for training sessions, then try to finish just before he hits his point.

Tip #6: End on a high note! This goes along with #5. If you have been working for 5-10 minutes on a command, and your dog finally does it perfectly, STOP! I know it is incredibly tempting to continue, but you will only frustrate yourself (and possibly your dog) if you try for that "one more rep" and your dog doesn't do it. I've seen plenty of owners fall to pieces because "he JUST did it perfectly! Now he won't do it!" Which brings me to my next tip...

Tip#7: Don't train when you are frustrated! Dogs pick up on our emotions. If you are tired, frustrated, or upset, your dog is going to know. And many dogs will shut down if you are in a bad mood. That is no way to keep your dog engaged in a training session! Don't start a training session if you are in a bad mood, and stop a training session if you feel yourself getting frustrated. Yes, I am giving you permission to hold off on training your dog. It won't benefit either of you to push a training session when you are in a bad mood. Trust me. It isn't worth it.

So those are seven of my tips for keeping your dog engaged in your training sessions. Keep training fun and rewarding, and your dog will be excited to learn!



Wednesday, April 1, 2015

Introduction to Loose Leash Walking

       We have all seen it: a dog walking down the street at the end of his leash, coughing and gagging because his collar is putting pressure on his throat. It isn’t fun for the owner or the dog! So how do we prevent or even correct this scenario? We encourage loose leash walking! Walking on a loose leash is actually not a natural behavior for a dog. There are so many sights and smells outside. Dogs just want to go as fast as they can to take it all in! And we humans only have two legs to keep up with our four-legged friends! In order to get our dogs to walk on a loose leash, we need to teach them two things. First, that pulling on the leash does not reward them with forward movement. And second, that staying close to our side is more rewarding than pulling forward.

A loose leash makes for enjoyable walks for everyone!

Do Not Reward the Pulling

      It is important to remember that walks are very reinforcing for dogs. Forward movement (in other words, the chance to keep taking in new smells) is rewarding. When a dog pulls on the leash, and he is allowed to continue walking forward, he is getting rewarded for pulling!  Instead, we need to teach our dogs that they do not get too move forward when they pull on the leash. There are two positive ways to do this. The first way is to simply stop moving when the leash gets tight. Don’t move forward until the leash relaxes. The second way is to turn around whenever the dog pulls. To avoid yanking the dog around, use a happy tone of voice and a cue (like “let’s go”) to get them to turn with you. Walk a few feet in the opposite direction, then turn around and continue on your walk. Repeat the process as needed. This may seem silly at first, but after a few turns your dog will start to learn that tension on the leash means that you do not move forward.
      You can also play a game to reward loose leash walking. Put your dog on a leash and place a treat at the end of a long hallway. Make sure your dog sees it. Then walk to the other side of the hallway. Now walk towards the treat. Stop moving whenever the leash gets tight and wait until it relaxes. When it does, use a cue that means you are going to move forward (like “let’s go”) and continue walking forward. Repeat this process until you get to the end of the hallway. Make sure to add a cue (like “get it”) that means it is okay to get the treat right before you walk up to it.

Understanding the Opposition Reflex
      Dogs have something called an opposition reflex. Put simply, this reflex causes the dog to push against pressure. So when a dog is pulling on a leash, he will naturally continue to pull on that leash as long as there is pressure on his throat. You can “reset” this opposition reflex by either turning or by stopping. You can also prevent the reflex from being triggered by walking your dog on a no-pull harness. 

Choosing the Right Equipment

      The equipment you choose to walk your dog on matters! Retractable leashes almost always have tension, so it is difficult to teach a dog to walk on a loose leash (all of the methods stated previously require that the leash is relaxed before the dog gets rewarded with forward movement). A 6-4 foot nylon leash is recommended. “H-style” harnesses (the kind that form an H on the dog’s back and clip on the back) trigger the opposition reflex. When the dog pulls, the harness puts pressure on the dog’s chest, causing it to push forward. Typical flat collars also trigger the opposition reflex because they put pressure on the dog’s throat when they pull forward. Both flat collars and H-style harnesses are fine to use once your dog has learned loose leash walking.

In this photo, Rana is wearing an H-style harness. 
       No-pull harnesses like Easy Walks and Wonder Walkers work against the opposition reflex. When the dog pulls, the leash actually turns the body to the side, instead of putting pressure on the dog’s chest or neck. Head collars (such as Gentle Leaders) work in a similar way, except they turn the head instead of the chest. You do have to take care to avoid yanking your dog around on a head collar, as this can be painful on their neck (think of whiplash in a car. It can hurt when your neck moves suddenly in a different direction)!
      Prong/ pinch collars, shock collars, and choke collars may be tempting to use because they can provide “immediate” results. However, these tools are very painful for your dog! Many people advertise how prong collars are not painful and state that they disperse pressure evenly around the neck. However, studies have shown that prong collars actually increase the pressure on the neck! An 80 lb dog pulling on a standard flat collar exerts about 5lbs per square inch (psi) on their neck, but that same dog on a prong collar exerts over 550 psi on their neck per prong (Steinker & Tudge, 2012)! This can cause damage to the trachea, esophagus, eyes, and soft tissues of the neck. Prong collars “work” because they are painful. In contrast, loose leash training and no-pull harnesses are painless solutions that allow everyone (human and canine) to enjoy their walks!


Walking at Your Side is Awesome (and Your Dog Should Know it)!

      One of the ways to encourage loose leash walking is to train your dog that walking by your side is more rewarding than pulling forward. To do this, keep a handful of tasty treats in your pocket or a training bag. Start your walk by showing your dog that you have these treats. Put a treat in your hand and hold it down at your side. When your dog comes to your side, give him the treat and give him lots of praise! Then continue on your walk. Whenever your dog walks by your side, give him a treat and lots of praise. When he begins to show this behavior consistently, add a cue (such as “with me”). Start by using this cue when he goes to your side. Use the cue before you give him the treat. Eventually, your dog will associate the cue with walking by your side. 

References
Steinker, A & Tudge, N. (2012). Choke and prong collars: Health concerns call for equipment change in dog training. The Pet Professional Guild, Barks From The Guild, Autumn 2012. Retrieved from: http://ppgworldservices.com/2014/03/01/choke-and-prong-collars-health-concerns-call-for-equipment-change-in-dog-training/

Introduction to Recall

      Recall is another name for the command, “come.” It is one of the most important commands that your dog will learn! Recall can save your dog’s life, keep them from entering a dangerous situation, and prevent them from getting lost!  

Recall needs to be fun, so your dog WANTS to come to you!

A Command is Like a Bank Account!

      When teaching a dog any command, it is helpful to think of a command like a bank account. You can make deposits and withdrawals to the bank account. For a dog, verbal praise is like adding some change to the bank account. Food rewards are like a paycheck because they are more reinforcing. The higher the value of the treat, the larger the paycheck. Generally, smelly, high-calorie treats like cheese and liver are considered “higher value” than hard treats like dry dog biscuits. But the value of the treat is determined by the individual dog’s personal preference. Finding that special “high value” treat for your dog is an important part of dog training! Toys, games, and walks can also be reinforcing for dogs and can all be considered deposits.
      A withdrawal is anything that your dog considers unpleasant. For example, calling your dog over to take a bath can be like taking a huge withdrawal out of the “recall bank account!” It is important to avoid withdrawals as much as possible, because it is important to keep your account balance above zero!
Generalizing

      Generalizing is the ability to apply learned information to different situations. Humans are excellent at generalizing! For example, if you learn to change a tire in front of your house on a sunny day, you will probably still know how to change a tire in the pouring rain in a different city in the middle of the night. Dogs are not very good at generalizing. If a dog learns to sit in a puppy class, he may not know how to do it at the dog park or even at home! This can be very frustrating for dog owners, as they may feel like their dog isn’t listening or didn’t learn the command after all. It is important to remember that this is a normal part of dog training. We can help our dogs learn to generalize commands by practicing the command in many different situations. At first, it may feel as though you have to reteach the command over and over. Again, this is a normal process. Be patient and reward the desired behavior. Eventually, you will see your dog start to understand the command in new situations. This is important for recall, because you never know when or where you might need it!
How to Begin

       Start in a distraction-free environment so that your dog can focus on you. When your puppy is approaching you, say their name and the word, come. Remember to only say the command once! We do not want the command to be “Fido, come, come, COME!” When your dog gets to you, make a huge fuss. Praise and give treats! We want our dogs to know that coming to us is a good thing! You can motivate your dog to come to you by waving a toy, running around, or showing him a treat. Be exciting!
 
Be exciting so your dog RUNS to you when you call! 

Play a Game!

    Have someone help you play this fun recall game. Have the other person sit on the floor and hold your dog. Walk a few feet away and sit on the floor. Act really exciting! Use a happy tone of voice, wave your arms around, slap the floor, and say your dog’s name in a playful tone of voice. Then, when your dog is paying attention and your partner is ready, say COME! As soon as you say come, have your partner release your dog. Your dog will come rushing to you! Praise and give lots of treats when your dog gets to you! You can repeat this game back and forth a few times, alternating who holds the dog. Just make sure to end the game before your dog gets tired or bored.

Recall Do’s and Don’ts
  • DO reward your dog every time they come when called!
  • DON’T ever punish your dog for coming to you, even if it took them awhile to come to you! Remember, punishing your dog for coming to you is like taking a huge withdrawal out of their “recall bank account!”
  • DO avoid calling your dog to do unpleasant things whenever possible. For example, try not to call your dog to a bath or to go to the vet. Instead, calmly go get them.
  • DON’T ever call your dog to a time-out!
  • DO call your dog when they are playing with others and allow them to go back to playing (use a phrase like “okay, go play”) so that they don’t learn that come at the dog park means that they are going home.
  • DON’T chase your dog when trying to get them to come. Chase is a very fun and rewarding game for dogs!
  • DO have your dog chase YOU! If you are having trouble getting your dog to come to you, turn the other way and run! You will become more interesting, and your dog will likely chase you!
  • DON'T expect your dog to come to you in distracting environments until you have worked on recall in distraction-free environments!
  • DO practice in fenced yards and indoors until your dog has a reliable recall. 
Don't let your dog off-leash outside until you are confident in her recall!


Socialization

Socialization is one of the most important aspects of raising a puppy! Socialization helps dogs learn to be comfortable in a variety of situations. Puppies are like little sponges—they are always learning! And when they are young, puppies are curious and able to learn about new situations. As dogs get older, they become naturally suspicious of new situations. Good socialization takes advantage of a puppy’s natural ability to learn about new situations.  When a well socialized puppy grows into an adult dog, the adult dog can be confident because she has “been there, done that.”

Puppies need to explore the world when they are young!


Fear Period

                Puppies go through several stages in their development. One of the most important stages is the “fear period.” During a fear period, dogs are very sensitive to negative experiences. A bad experience during a fear period can leave a lasting impression on an adult dog. Most puppies experience their first fear period between eight and ten weeks, although every individual puppy is different. A second fear period is typically experienced between four and six months. Some dogs may experience more than two fear periods. A dog experiencing a fear period will typically exhibit “wary” behaviors, such as getting down low, tucking the tail, not wanting to walk forward, etc. Some dogs may even act this way around things that they used to be comfortable with!
It is critical that dogs have only positive experiences during fear periods! Do not force a puppy into a negative experience and do not “coddle” a puppy that is frightened. “Coddling” or consoling a frightened puppy by picking it up, cooing at it, or giving it lots of attention is like telling the puppy, “Good boy! You are very right to be frightened!” Instead, use a neutral tone of voice and remain calm. Say things like, “Oh it is only a vacuum cleaner, silly puppy!” Praise any confident behaviors (for example, a puppy taking a step towards the vacuum cleaner to sniff it).

New Experiences!

Puppies should have as many positive experiences as possible. Use treats and toys to help make positive associations! Here is a list of some of the things you should expose your puppy to:
·         Strangers (as many as possible!)
o   People with hats, umbrellas, backpacks, hoodies, costumes, etc.
·         Children
·         Loud noises
o   Vacuum cleaner
o   Fireworks (or prerecorded fireworks)
o   Loud metal noises (like a metal chair falling on the ground)
o   Screaming
o   Thunder (or prerecorded thunder sounds)
o   Car horn, traffic
o   Doorbell ringing
o   Applause/ excited crowds
·         Things with wheels
o   Bicycles
o   Rollerblades, skate boards
o    Cars, busses
o   Shopping carts
o   Strollers
o   Wheelchairs
o   Garbage cans with wheels
·         Fans
·         Balloons
·         Bags blowing in the wind
·         Brooms
·         Umbrellas
·         Vet’s office
·         Car rides
·         Animals
o   Dogs (of all breeds and ages!)
o   Cats
o   Small animals (such as hamsters, rabbits, etc.)
o   Livestock (especially horses!)
o   Reptiles
o   Birds
·         Different surfaces
o   Metal grates
o   Manhole covers
o   Different floor types (especially shiny and slippery floors)
o   Ice and snow (if possible)
o   Wobbly surfaces
o   Mud, wet grass
o   Concrete
·         Stairs
·         Bridges (especially bridges that swing and bridges with metal grates!)
·         Grooming tools
o   Brushes
o   Nail clippers
o   Dremel
o   Toothbrush

·         Anything that you want your puppy to be confident around as an adult dog!