Teaching Connections: Engagement

One of the wonderful things about being in college to become a elementary school teacher while training dogs at the same time is that I can make lots of amazing connections between the two professions. Every time I learn something new as a future school teacher, I feel that it makes me a better dog trainer. And vice versa. And while children and dogs are very different, there are certainly connections that I can make between the two professions. At the very least, learning how to work with little humans is beneficial to me as a dog trainer because, well...dog training is more about training the owners than the dogs. And dog owners are human ;-)

One thing that we talk about a lot as future educators is the concept of student engagement. Is the student engaged in the lesson? How can we engage the student in the lesson? Engagement is simply what it sounds like: is the student actively participating in the lesson, and are they excited about the lesson? When students are engaged in the lesson, they are obviously more likely to benefit from the lesson. It seems fairly common sense. Even as adults, we are much more likely to retain information if we are engaged in the lesson at the time. Think of someone telling you a story. If you are distracted or even bored with the story, you are much less likely to remember it later. Well the same thing goes for dogs!

Rana is focused!

Engagement in dog training is not something I hear about often. Sure, we talk a little about making sure we have the right treat, that our training sessions are short and sweet, etc. But I never hear people talking about the importance of engagement in dog training on the same level that we talk about it in terms of child or even adult education. So how important is engagement in dog training?

Short answer: Very.

Anyone who has ever tried to get their dog to learn something in a crowded basic obedience class can tell you, it is extremely frustrating when your dog is distracted. I make a point to tell my students that group classes are not a nice, sterile environment. The other dogs, strange people, and loud noises can be very distracting for some dogs! So I tell students, "if this is not working in this environment, that is okay. Try it at home, let me know how it worked for you when we meet next week. This is normal!" Obviously, in cases where dogs are distracted, they have trouble learning commands in the first place. Even if they do get the command in a distracting environment, they might not retain the lesson. This is partially a problem with engagement. The dog is not engaged in the lesson!

So how do we ensure that our dogs are engaged in our training sessions? Here are seven of my tips for keeping your dog excited and focused while learning!

 Tip #1: Work on the 3 Ds in the right order. Duration, distance, THEN distraction! Distractions are a big problem for dogs. Whenever we dog trainers start working on a command, we talk about the 3 Ds of dog training. They MUST be done in the right order. Duration. Distance. Distraction. When working on stay, for instance, we start with duration (increasing the time that a dog can stay), then distance (walking away from the dog for a step, then two, then three, etc), and finally distraction. We start each D on "easy mode" and slowly increase what we expect from the dog. We start with a few seconds for stay duration, then add more as we work on it. We start with a step for distance, then slowly work until we can walk across the room. We add small distractions (some noise in the other room or the owner making a small but unusual movement like hoping on one leg) and move on to increasingly more difficult distractions like the owner suddenly running in the opposite direction, throwing food near the dog, or having another dog walk by. Unfortunately, many owners try to work on Ds in the wrong order. Sometimes they have control over it (like when an owner tries to teach "stay" by walking backwards while chanting the command before they have worked on duration). Sometimes owners do not have any control over it (like trying to work on a new command in a distracting basic class). Either way, this can pose issues for a dog's engagement in the session.

Tip for engagement #1.5: Eliminate as many distractions as possible during the early stages of training. You will never have a completely distraction-free environment. But if you are working on a down/stay at home, and a firetruck goes blaring down the street and your dog gets up to sing to the truck, go ahead and stop working until the distraction has passed. Don't get frustrated, and don't try to be louder than the firetruck. Remember to work with your dog, not against him. If you know that your cat walking by is a distraction for your dog, then put kitty in another room during training sessions. If the cat isn't a significant distraction for your dog, then don't worry about it.

Tip for engagement #2: "Crack, not Crackers". This is a phrase I've heard multiple times in the dog training world.  I apologize for the drug reference, but when we are talking in terms of engagement and food motivation, you truly want your dog to act as though he is "addicted" to the treat. You want him to be excited to work for that treat, because then he is actively engaged in the session! Dry dog biscuits ("crackers") probably won't engage your dog in the training session. Instead, you need to bring out what is called a "high-value" treat ("crack"). The value of the treat is determined by the individual dog. In general, stinky, high-calorie treats like liver and cheese are considered high-value. But I have met dogs that have treat preferences some might consider a bit...odd. I knew a dog that would do ANYTHING for a piece of banana! The trick is to find a (safe) treat that your dog L-O-V-E-S! And use a tiny bit of that treat (no need to give your dog the whole banana, just a little piece at a time will do). The other thing that is important about food is that the smell of food floods a dog's brain with feel-good chemicals like dopamine and activates the learning part of the brain. This is a very good thing when we are trying to engage our dogs in a training session!

High-value treats are very important in training!

Tip for engagement #3: Play games! This is something that we use quite often in child education. Children learn best through play. Games are exciting, rewarding, and engaging. They also create a fun, positive learning atmosphere. All of this holds true for dogs as well. Learning games help you to have fun. And when you are having fun, your dog is having fun, too! Games help your dog stay engaged in the lesson. For some ideas of learning games you can play with your dog, check out the intro to loose leash walking and intro to recall blog posts.

Dogs love to play and run! Take advantage of that in training. 

Tip for engagement #4: Incorporate physical activity. This is another thing that we implement a lot in child education. Physical activity is important for any animal, dog or human. Exercise floods the brain with feel-good chemicals, lowers stress, and just generally helps us to stay healthy! Incorporating physical activity into your dog training sessions is fun for your dog, and good for his health, too! And it is as easy as simply running a few steps, asking for a command, giving the treat, and then darting off again. Your dog will happily follow you (especially if you have a high-value treat). You become unpredictable. Your dog never knows where you will run off to next or what you will ask for when you stop. All of the sudden, your boring sit-down-stand drill exercises become fun and engaging! You can also incorporate this kind of training on walks, hikes, etc. Many training games (such as the recall game) also incorporate physical activity. As an added bonus, training sessions that include exercise work a dog's mind and body, making for one tired pooch! And as the saying goes, "a tired dog is a good dog!"

A tired dog is a good dog!

Tip #5: Keep your training sessions short and sweet. It is no secret that dogs can have short attention spans. Don't push your dog to the point of boredom by insisting on a super-long training session. In general, five to ten minutes is a good length of time for a session. Sometimes I go as long as 15-20 minutes with Rana, but she is a professional and has two years of experience putting up with me. If your dog starts to act bored, let him take a break. Go for a walk, let him out in the backyard, etc. You can always try again a little later. One of the secrets of keeping your dog engaged in a training session is ending the session with him wanting more. If you put down the treats, walk away, and find that your dog is following you with a disappointed, "hey, get back here!" look on his face, then you have succeeded! Get to know your dog and find out his "stamina" for training sessions, then try to finish just before he hits his point.

Tip #6: End on a high note! This goes along with #5. If you have been working for 5-10 minutes on a command, and your dog finally does it perfectly, STOP! I know it is incredibly tempting to continue, but you will only frustrate yourself (and possibly your dog) if you try for that "one more rep" and your dog doesn't do it. I've seen plenty of owners fall to pieces because "he JUST did it perfectly! Now he won't do it!" Which brings me to my next tip...

Tip#7: Don't train when you are frustrated! Dogs pick up on our emotions. If you are tired, frustrated, or upset, your dog is going to know. And many dogs will shut down if you are in a bad mood. That is no way to keep your dog engaged in a training session! Don't start a training session if you are in a bad mood, and stop a training session if you feel yourself getting frustrated. Yes, I am giving you permission to hold off on training your dog. It won't benefit either of you to push a training session when you are in a bad mood. Trust me. It isn't worth it.

So those are seven of my tips for keeping your dog engaged in your training sessions. Keep training fun and rewarding, and your dog will be excited to learn!

Introduction to Loose Leash Walking

       We have all seen it: a dog walking down the street at the end of his leash, coughing and gagging because his collar is putting pressure on his throat. It isn’t fun for the owner or the dog! So how do we prevent or even correct this scenario? We encourage loose leash walking! Walking on a loose leash is actually not a natural behavior for a dog. There are so many sights and smells outside. Dogs just want to go as fast as they can to take it all in! And we humans only have two legs to keep up with our four-legged friends! In order to get our dogs to walk on a loose leash, we need to teach them two things. First, that pulling on the leash does not reward them with forward movement. And second, that staying close to our side is more rewarding than pulling forward.

A loose leash makes for enjoyable walks for everyone!

Do Not Reward the Pulling

      It is important to remember that walks are very reinforcing for dogs. Forward movement (in other words, the chance to keep taking in new smells) is rewarding. When a dog pulls on the leash, and he is allowed to continue walking forward, he is getting rewarded for pulling!  Instead, we need to teach our dogs that they do not get too move forward when they pull on the leash. There are two positive ways to do this. The first way is to simply stop moving when the leash gets tight. Don’t move forward until the leash relaxes. The second way is to turn around whenever the dog pulls. To avoid yanking the dog around, use a happy tone of voice and a cue (like “let’s go”) to get them to turn with you. Walk a few feet in the opposite direction, then turn around and continue on your walk. Repeat the process as needed. This may seem silly at first, but after a few turns your dog will start to learn that tension on the leash means that you do not move forward.

      You can also play a game to reward loose leash walking. Put your dog on a leash and place a treat at the end of a long hallway. Make sure your dog sees it. Then walk to the other side of the hallway. Now walk towards the treat. Stop moving whenever the leash gets tight and wait until it relaxes. When it does, use a cue that means you are going to move forward (like “let’s go”) and continue walking forward. Repeat this process until you get to the end of the hallway. Make sure to add a cue (like “get it”) that means it is okay to get the treat right before you walk up to it.

Understanding the Opposition Reflex

      Dogs have something called an opposition reflex. Put simply, this reflex causes the dog to push against pressure. So when a dog is pulling on a leash, he will naturally continue to pull on that leash as long as there is pressure on his throat. You can “reset” this opposition reflex by either turning or by stopping. You can also prevent the reflex from being triggered by walking your dog on a no-pull harness. 

Choosing the Right Equipment

      The equipment you choose to walk your dog on matters! Retractable leashes almost always have tension, so it is difficult to teach a dog to walk on a loose leash (all of the methods stated previously require that the leash is relaxed before the dog gets rewarded with forward movement). A 6-4 foot nylon leash is recommended. “H-style” harnesses (the kind that form an H on the dog’s back and clip on the back) trigger the opposition reflex. When the dog pulls, the harness puts pressure on the dog’s chest, causing it to push forward. Typical flat collars also trigger the opposition reflex because they put pressure on the dog’s throat when they pull forward. Both flat collars and H-style harnesses are fine to use once your dog has learned loose leash walking.

In this photo, Rana is wearing an H-style harness. 

       No-pull harnesses like Easy Walks and Wonder Walkers work against the opposition reflex. When the dog pulls, the leash actually turns the body to the side, instead of putting pressure on the dog’s chest or neck. Head collars (such as Gentle Leaders) work in a similar way, except they turn the head instead of the chest. You do have to take care to avoid yanking your dog around on a head collar, as this can be painful on their neck (think of whiplash in a car. It can hurt when your neck moves suddenly in a different direction)!

      Prong/ pinch collars, shock collars, and choke collars may be tempting to use because they can provide “immediate” results. However, these tools are very painful for your dog! Many people advertise how prong collars are not painful and state that they disperse pressure evenly around the neck. However, studies have shown that prong collars actually increase the pressure on the neck! An 80 lb dog pulling on a standard flat collar exerts about 5lbs per square inch (psi) on their neck, but that same dog on a prong collar exerts over 550 psi on their neck per prong (Steinker & Tudge, 2012)! This can cause damage to the trachea, esophagus, eyes, and soft tissues of the neck. Prong collars “work” because they are painful. In contrast, loose leash training and no-pull harnesses are painless solutions that allow everyone (human and canine) to enjoy their walks!

Walking at Your Side is Awesome (and Your Dog Should Know it)!

      One of the ways to encourage loose leash walking is to train your dog that walking by your side is more rewarding than pulling forward. To do this, keep a handful of tasty treats in your pocket or a training bag. Start your walk by showing your dog that you have these treats. Put a treat in your hand and hold it down at your side. When your dog comes to your side, give him the treat and give him lots of praise! Then continue on your walk. Whenever your dog walks by your side, give him a treat and lots of praise. When he begins to show this behavior consistently, add a cue (such as “with me”). Start by using this cue when he goes to your side. Use the cue before you give him the treat. Eventually, your dog will associate the cue with walking by your side. 

References

Steinker, A & Tudge, N. (2012). Choke and prong collars: Health concerns call for equipment change in dog training. The Pet Professional Guild, Barks From The Guild, Autumn 2012. Retrieved from: http://ppgworldservices.com/2014/03/01/choke-and-prong-collars-health-concerns-call-for-equipment-change-in-dog-training/

Introduction to Recall

      Recall is another name for the command, “come.” It is one of the most important commands that your dog will learn! Recall can save your dog’s life, keep them from entering a dangerous situation, and prevent them from getting lost!  

Recall needs to be fun, so your dog WANTS to come to you!

A Command is Like a Bank Account!

      When teaching a dog any command, it is helpful to think of a command like a bank account. You can make deposits and withdrawals to the bank account. For a dog, verbal praise is like adding some change to the bank account. Food rewards are like a paycheck because they are more reinforcing. The higher the value of the treat, the larger the paycheck. Generally, smelly, high-calorie treats like cheese and liver are considered “higher value” than hard treats like dry dog biscuits. But the value of the treat is determined by the individual dog’s personal preference. Finding that special “high value” treat for your dog is an important part of dog training! Toys, games, and walks can also be reinforcing for dogs and can all be considered deposits.

      A withdrawal is anything that your dog considers unpleasant. For example, calling your dog over to take a bath can be like taking a huge withdrawal out of the “recall bank account!” It is important to avoid withdrawals as much as possible, because it is important to keep your account balance above zero!

Generalizing

      Generalizing is the ability to apply learned information to different situations. Humans are excellent at generalizing! For example, if you learn to change a tire in front of your house on a sunny day, you will probably still know how to change a tire in the pouring rain in a different city in the middle of the night. Dogs are not very good at generalizing. If a dog learns to sit in a puppy class, he may not know how to do it at the dog park or even at home! This can be very frustrating for dog owners, as they may feel like their dog isn’t listening or didn’t learn the command after all. It is important to remember that this is a normal part of dog training. We can help our dogs learn to generalize commands by practicing the command in many different situations. At first, it may feel as though you have to reteach the command over and over. Again, this is a normal process. Be patient and reward the desired behavior. Eventually, you will see your dog start to understand the command in new situations. This is important for recall, because you never know when or where you might need it!

How to Begin

       Start in a distraction-free environment so that your dog can focus on you. When your puppy is approaching you, say their name and the word, come. Remember to only say the command once! We do not want the command to be “Fido, come, come, COME!” When your dog gets to you, make a huge fuss. Praise and give treats! We want our dogs to know that coming to us is a good thing! You can motivate your dog to come to you by waving a toy, running around, or showing him a treat. Be exciting!

 

Be exciting so your dog RUNS to you when you call! 

Play a Game!

    Have someone help you play this fun recall game. Have the other person sit on the floor and hold your dog. Walk a few feet away and sit on the floor. Act really exciting! Use a happy tone of voice, wave your arms around, slap the floor, and say your dog’s name in a playful tone of voice. Then, when your dog is paying attention and your partner is ready, say COME! As soon as you say come, have your partner release your dog. Your dog will come rushing to you! Praise and give lots of treats when your dog gets to you! You can repeat this game back and forth a few times, alternating who holds the dog. Just make sure to end the game before your dog gets tired or bored.

Recall Do’s and Don’ts

• DO reward your dog every time they come when called!
• DON’T ever punish your dog for coming to you, even if it took them awhile to come to you! Remember, punishing your dog for coming to you is like taking a huge withdrawal out of their “recall bank account!”
• DO avoid calling your dog to do unpleasant things whenever possible. For example, try not to call your dog to a bath or to go to the vet. Instead, calmly go get them.
• DON’T ever call your dog to a time-out!
• DO call your dog when they are playing with others and allow them to go back to playing (use a phrase like “okay, go play”) so that they don’t learn that come at the dog park means that they are going home.
• DON’T chase your dog when trying to get them to come. Chase is a very fun and rewarding game for dogs!
• DO have your dog chase YOU! If you are having trouble getting your dog to come to you, turn the other way and run! You will become more interesting, and your dog will likely chase you!
• DON'T expect your dog to come to you in distracting environments until you have worked on recall in distraction-free environments!
• DO practice in fenced yards and indoors until your dog has a reliable recall. 

Don't let your dog off-leash outside until you are confident in her recall!

Socialization

Socialization is one of the most important aspects of raising a puppy! Socialization helps dogs learn to be comfortable in a variety of situations. Puppies are like little sponges—they are always learning! And when they are young, puppies are curious and able to learn about new situations. As dogs get older, they become naturally suspicious of new situations. Good socialization takes advantage of a puppy’s natural ability to learn about new situations.  When a well socialized puppy grows into an adult dog, the adult dog can be confident because she has “been there, done that.”

Puppies need to explore the world when they are young!

Fear Period

                Puppies go through several stages in their development. One of the most important stages is the “fear period.” During a fear period, dogs are very sensitive to negative experiences. A bad experience during a fear period can leave a lasting impression on an adult dog. Most puppies experience their first fear period between eight and ten weeks, although every individual puppy is different. A second fear period is typically experienced between four and six months. Some dogs may experience more than two fear periods. A dog experiencing a fear period will typically exhibit “wary” behaviors, such as getting down low, tucking the tail, not wanting to walk forward, etc. Some dogs may even act this way around things that they used to be comfortable with!

It is critical that dogs have only positive experiences during fear periods! Do not force a puppy into a negative experience and do not “coddle” a puppy that is frightened. “Coddling” or consoling a frightened puppy by picking it up, cooing at it, or giving it lots of attention is like telling the puppy, “Good boy! You are very right to be frightened!” Instead, use a neutral tone of voice and remain calm. Say things like, “Oh it is only a vacuum cleaner, silly puppy!” Praise any confident behaviors (for example, a puppy taking a step towards the vacuum cleaner to sniff it).

New Experiences!

Puppies should have as many positive experiences as possible. Use treats and toys to help make positive associations! Here is a list of some of the things you should expose your puppy to:

·         Strangers (as many as possible!)

o   People with hats, umbrellas, backpacks, hoodies, costumes, etc.

·         Children

·         Loud noises

o   Vacuum cleaner

o   Fireworks (or prerecorded fireworks)

o   Loud metal noises (like a metal chair falling on the ground)

o   Screaming

o   Thunder (or prerecorded thunder sounds)

o   Car horn, traffic

o   Doorbell ringing

o   Applause/ excited crowds

·         Things with wheels

o   Bicycles

o   Rollerblades, skate boards

o    Cars, busses

o   Shopping carts

o   Strollers

o   Wheelchairs

o   Garbage cans with wheels

·         Fans

·         Balloons

·         Bags blowing in the wind

·         Brooms

·         Umbrellas

·         Vet’s office

·         Car rides

·         Animals

o   Dogs (of all breeds and ages!)

o   Cats

o   Small animals (such as hamsters, rabbits, etc.)

o   Livestock (especially horses!)

o   Reptiles

o   Birds

·         Different surfaces

o   Metal grates

o   Manhole covers

o   Different floor types (especially shiny and slippery floors)

o   Ice and snow (if possible)

o   Wobbly surfaces

o   Mud, wet grass

o   Concrete

·         Stairs

·         Bridges (especially bridges that swing and bridges with metal grates!)

·         Grooming tools

o   Brushes

o   Nail clippers

o   Dremel

o   Toothbrush

·         Anything that you want your puppy to be confident around as an adult dog!

Effective Time-Outs

      Every dog can be naughty sometimes! Effective time outs are a great way to redirect bad behavior and give the dog a “mental break” so that they can calm down and try a more appropriate behavior later. Effective time-outs and warnings can also communicate expectations for good behavior and give dogs the chance to make “better choices.”

"Naughty? Who, Me? Never! I am always perfect!"

            A time-out can be given in any neutral space with fun things (like treats and toys) removed. A small room such as a bathroom is a perfect place for a time-out spot. Just make sure that any item that could be chewed or played with (such as toilet paper) is safely out of the dog’s reach. An exercise pen is another great option for a time-out spot. Crates can also be used for time-outs, as long as the dog has more positive experiences in the crate than bad experiences. Note: it is especially important to remain calm when placing your dog in a time-out, especially if you are going to use a crate as a time-out spot! A leash tied to a door or post can also be used as a time-out spot. Just be aware that some dogs may chew on the leash. Bitter apple can be sprayed on the leash to discourage chewing. Be creative. You may not have your usual time-out spot available if you aren't at home. This doesn't mean you can't use time-outs! The back of a car on a cool day or a leash tied to a tree or post can make perfect time-out spots. Just make sure your dog is safe (don't leave them in a hot car please!). It is the removal from the situation and the removal of attention that is the key to a success time-out! 

            Time-outs can be used for two different types of behaviors: annoying behaviors and serious behaviors. Annoying behaviors are generally repeated in a short time frame, and pose little danger to the dog or others. Barking, jumping up, and mouthing too rough are all examples of annoying behaviors. Serious behaviors generally pose a danger to the dog or others. Biting, stealing food, knocking people over, and fighting are examples of serious behaviors. Note: in cases of aggression, it is important to remember that we are not punishing the dog, but rather giving them some personal space and a chance to calm down. Never yell at or use physical punishment with a dog that is showing signs of aggression!

Time-out procedure for annoying behaviors:

1.    Give the dog a firm verbal warning for the bad behavior (“Rover, QUIET”). Remember to praise for good behavior!
2. Give a second firm verbal warning if the behavior continues (“Rover, quiet. LAST WARNING”).
3.   If the behavior continues, use a phrase that means the dog is going to time-out (“Rover, that’s it!” or “Rover, you lose!”)
4.  Calmly lead the dog by the collar to their time-out spot. Do not yell or physically punish the dog. Do not chase the dog. Chase can turn into a rewarding game. Instead, if your dog tries to run or avoid you, approach calmly until you can grab them. Sometimes it is easier to gently grab their back hips.
5.  It is VERY important that you follow through with your last warning and time-out phrase! These commands will hold power if used consistently! After a few time-outs, many dogs will start to hear the phrase “LAST WARNING” and stop the behavior because they have learned that if they continue, they will get a time-out! This type of training helps communicate expectations for good behavior and allows the dog to “make good choices!”
6.   A time-out for an annoying behavior lasts for about 5 minutes. If the dog barks, whines, scratches, or tries to escape their time-out, then the time starts over. DO NOT RELEASE YOUR DOG FROM A TIME-OUT UNTIL THEY ARE CALM! This is very important! If you release your dog from a time-out when they are fussing, then they will learn that is how to get out of a time-out. Remember that being released from a time-out is a reward! Reward calm behavior!
7.  When the dog is calm, release them from the time-out.

Time-out procedure for serious behaviors:  Skip the first two warnings, use the time-out phrase, and take them straight to a time-out. Remember to remain calm. Follow steps 4-7. Increase the time in step 6 if needed. For aggressive behaviors, the dog may need more than five minutes to calm down. For serious but less dangerous behaviors, such as stealing food, a 5 minute time-out should be sufficient.

Tips: Use specific phrases to let your dog know what they are doing wrong. For example, use “quiet” when your dog is barking and “off” when your dog jumps up. Try to avoid simply saying no for every bad behavior!

Remember to be consistent. Use the same amount of warnings for each time for annoying behaviors. If you use a different number of warnings each time, the dog will go for the higher number of warnings. Again, it is VERY important that you follow through with your last warning and time-out phrase! These commands will hold power if used consistently! After a few time-outs, many dogs will start to hear the phrase “LAST WARNING” and stop the behavior because they have learned that if they continue, they will get a time-out! 

When paired with positive reinforcement for good behaviors, effective time-outs can help communicate expectations for good behavior and allow the dog to “make good choices!” 

Clicker Training

      I think it is about time that I make a clicker post. We are called "Clicker Collie", after all! 

      Clicker training is a great way to help your dog learn new behaviors. Clicker training uses a clicker or “marker word” to take a snapshot of an animal’s behavior. It tells the animal exactly what it did to receive the treat.  In a way, it is like saying, “YES! That RIGHT there! That is why I am about to reward you!” It also tells the animal, “Good job. Your treat is coming.” A clicker is known as a bridging device, because it acts as a bridge between the desired behavior and the treat.  

A photo of a clicker (retrieved from petco.com). 

      A clicker is a device that provides a consistent clicking noise to mark the desired behavior. A “marker word” can be used instead of a clicker. A marker word is one word (such as, “Yes” or “Good”) that is said in a consistent, upbeat tone of voice. Both clickers and marker words can be used to clicker train an animal. Clickers are usually more effective because they produce a more consistent noise than a human voice (voices tend to fluctuate). Also, humans are very vocal creatures, but dogs are not. Some dogs may occasionally tune out verbal cues from their owners. In contrast, the clicker provides a sharp, loud noise that is not often heard outside of training sessions. However, it may not always be possible to have a free hand to hold a clicker, and some owners may feel more comfortable using a marker word than a clicker.

Five Things to Remember When Clicker Training

1.      Always click, then treat! Clicker training is like taking a snapshot of the desired behavior. You do not want to take a snapshot of your dog eating a treat! So always wait for the desired behavior, click, then treat.

2.      One desired behavior, one click. Only click or mark once for a desired behavior. If the animal does an excellent job, you can increase the number of treats (also known as a jackpot). Remember: Increase the treats, not the clicks!

3.      A click ends the behavior. In other words, if you click when your dog sits, and it stands up before you give the treat, you can still give it a treat because you marked the sit.

4.      You only need to use the clicker for new behaviors. One an animal knows the cue, a clicker is not necessary. The clicker is only used to communicate a new desired behavior to the animal.

5.      It is not necessary to name the behavior until the animal begins to repeat the behavior. A dog who does not know “sit” does not know what the command means! If you start training a new behavior by saying the verbal command over and over, the dog may begin to tune out the command. The dog may even learn that the verbal command is actually several verbal repetitions of the command (for example, “sit, sit, SIT” instead of, “sit”). It is best to wait until the animal starts offering the behavior consistently, and then say the command right as they demonstrate the behavior. Fortunately, clicker training makes this process easier by effectively communicating the desired behavior to the animal. When the animal begins to understand the desired behavior, it will demonstrate it more frequently. So the steps are: encourage the desired behavior, give the cue as the animal demonstrates the behavior, click/mark, and then treat. Also, remember to only say the verbal command once.

Luring, Capturing and Shaping

(AKA How to Get That Desired Behavior!)

                 Luring, capturing, and shaping are three ways to get an animal to demonstrate a desired behavior. A lure is a treat (preferably a high-value, smelly treat) that gets an animal to move a specific way. For example, a treat placed above and slightly behind a puppy’s head will convince the puppy to look up, which will force its rear end down. This is an excellent way to teach a puppy to sit! Capturing is a method that involves waiting for the animal to demonstrate the behavior on its own (for example, waiting until a puppy sits naturally). Shaping is a method that involves rewarding small steps towards the desired behavior. For example, while training a dog to go to a bed on command, first reward partial progress (one foot on the bed, then require two feet, and so on). Shaping is typically used while training more complicated behaviors and can be paired with either the capturing or luring methods. 

NEW look!

The Clicker Collie is BACK with a brand new look! And we (Rana and I) have some big plans for this blog! Rana and I have been busy teaching dog classes for the last seven months. I will be creating some general training posts using my handouts that I have created for my classes. I also plan to create training videos in the near future, so keep an eye on the clicker collie YouTube page!

That's it for now. As always, thanks for reading! Oh, and Happy Spring!