The Art of Ignoring Part One: Negative Punishment is Positive!

Today we are going to talk about punishment (dun, dun, DUN!). The word punishment has very negative connotations, especially in the positive dog training world. But when we break punishment down, we can see its usefulness. Whenever we are working with an animal, it is helpful (and more accurate) to think in terms of rewarding or punishing a behavior rather than the animal. We aren't just rewarding our dog for sitting, we are rewarding the sitting behavior. We aren't punishing our dog for barking like crazy, we are punishing the crazy barking behavior. In training, we can increase a behavior with reinforcement or we can decrease a behavior with punishment. In general, positive dog trainers like to focus on rewarding wanted behaviors as opposed to decreasing unwanted behaviors. But punishment can be useful if done correctly. In fact, many people (and even trainers) punish behaviors without even realizing it!

Example: A puppy runs up to me on the first night of puppy class. She is very excited to say hello! She jumps all over me for a few seconds. I completely ignore her until she is sitting. Then I lavish her with attention. Hello cute puppy! By the second night of class, the puppy greets me by sitting politely at my feet.

Polite, sitting puppy

What just happened here? I obviously rewarded the sitting behavior and was rewarded myself with a polite puppy greeting a week later. But what about the jumping behavior? Did you notice that I punished that behavior?

In terms of animal behavior, negative means to remove and positive means to add. Positive reinforcement (again, reinforcement increases a behavior) adds something that the dog wants. Attention, verbal praise, food, toys, etc. I positively reinforced the sitting behavior with attention and verbal praise. Negative reinforcement removes something that the dog doesn't want. An example of negative reinforcement would be forced fetching, where a trainer pinches a dog's ear until they open their mouth. When the dog opens their mouth, the trainer lets go. This reinforces the mouth opening behavior by removing something that the dog doesn't want (pain!).

Rana's sitting behavior is positively reinforced with a doggy doughnut

Punishment follows the same rules. Negative means to remove, positive means to add. But in this case, the "evils" are flipped. Positive punishment adds something that the dog doesn't want. Pain, verbal or physical corrections, loud noises (like a can of pennies), spray bottles, etc. Negative punishment removes something that the dog wants. Withholding attention, treats, etc. are examples of negative punishment. Time-outs (which were discussed in another blog post) are another example of a negative punishment. The dog is removed from the situation (time-out) and then attention is withheld until the dog is released from the time-out. Most positive dog trainers use negative punishment, because it doesn't require the use of force, pain, or intimidation. A "positive dog trainer" is simply someone who refuses to use pain, force, or intimidation to train dogs. In this way, negative punishment is actually "positive!"

So look back at the puppy example. I applied a negative punishment (withholding attention AKA ignoring) to the jumping behavior. And I applied positive reinforcement (attention) to the sitting behavior. And absolutely no force, pain, or intimidation was used on the puppy! This is the art of ignoring, folks. In later blog posts I will address how to successfully ignore your dog in specific situations. We will also talk about extinction bursts (tantrums!) and cases of natural negative punishment in dog-to-dog interactions (hint: go look at the bite inhibition blog post. Do you see a negative punishment?). Have a great Memorial Day weekend and as always, thanks for reading! 

Introduction to Loose Leash Walking

       We have all seen it: a dog walking down the street at the end of his leash, coughing and gagging because his collar is putting pressure on his throat. It isn’t fun for the owner or the dog! So how do we prevent or even correct this scenario? We encourage loose leash walking! Walking on a loose leash is actually not a natural behavior for a dog. There are so many sights and smells outside. Dogs just want to go as fast as they can to take it all in! And we humans only have two legs to keep up with our four-legged friends! In order to get our dogs to walk on a loose leash, we need to teach them two things. First, that pulling on the leash does not reward them with forward movement. And second, that staying close to our side is more rewarding than pulling forward.

A loose leash makes for enjoyable walks for everyone!

Do Not Reward the Pulling

      It is important to remember that walks are very reinforcing for dogs. Forward movement (in other words, the chance to keep taking in new smells) is rewarding. When a dog pulls on the leash, and he is allowed to continue walking forward, he is getting rewarded for pulling!  Instead, we need to teach our dogs that they do not get too move forward when they pull on the leash. There are two positive ways to do this. The first way is to simply stop moving when the leash gets tight. Don’t move forward until the leash relaxes. The second way is to turn around whenever the dog pulls. To avoid yanking the dog around, use a happy tone of voice and a cue (like “let’s go”) to get them to turn with you. Walk a few feet in the opposite direction, then turn around and continue on your walk. Repeat the process as needed. This may seem silly at first, but after a few turns your dog will start to learn that tension on the leash means that you do not move forward.

      You can also play a game to reward loose leash walking. Put your dog on a leash and place a treat at the end of a long hallway. Make sure your dog sees it. Then walk to the other side of the hallway. Now walk towards the treat. Stop moving whenever the leash gets tight and wait until it relaxes. When it does, use a cue that means you are going to move forward (like “let’s go”) and continue walking forward. Repeat this process until you get to the end of the hallway. Make sure to add a cue (like “get it”) that means it is okay to get the treat right before you walk up to it.

Understanding the Opposition Reflex

      Dogs have something called an opposition reflex. Put simply, this reflex causes the dog to push against pressure. So when a dog is pulling on a leash, he will naturally continue to pull on that leash as long as there is pressure on his throat. You can “reset” this opposition reflex by either turning or by stopping. You can also prevent the reflex from being triggered by walking your dog on a no-pull harness. 

Choosing the Right Equipment

      The equipment you choose to walk your dog on matters! Retractable leashes almost always have tension, so it is difficult to teach a dog to walk on a loose leash (all of the methods stated previously require that the leash is relaxed before the dog gets rewarded with forward movement). A 6-4 foot nylon leash is recommended. “H-style” harnesses (the kind that form an H on the dog’s back and clip on the back) trigger the opposition reflex. When the dog pulls, the harness puts pressure on the dog’s chest, causing it to push forward. Typical flat collars also trigger the opposition reflex because they put pressure on the dog’s throat when they pull forward. Both flat collars and H-style harnesses are fine to use once your dog has learned loose leash walking.

In this photo, Rana is wearing an H-style harness. 

       No-pull harnesses like Easy Walks and Wonder Walkers work against the opposition reflex. When the dog pulls, the leash actually turns the body to the side, instead of putting pressure on the dog’s chest or neck. Head collars (such as Gentle Leaders) work in a similar way, except they turn the head instead of the chest. You do have to take care to avoid yanking your dog around on a head collar, as this can be painful on their neck (think of whiplash in a car. It can hurt when your neck moves suddenly in a different direction)!

      Prong/ pinch collars, shock collars, and choke collars may be tempting to use because they can provide “immediate” results. However, these tools are very painful for your dog! Many people advertise how prong collars are not painful and state that they disperse pressure evenly around the neck. However, studies have shown that prong collars actually increase the pressure on the neck! An 80 lb dog pulling on a standard flat collar exerts about 5lbs per square inch (psi) on their neck, but that same dog on a prong collar exerts over 550 psi on their neck per prong (Steinker & Tudge, 2012)! This can cause damage to the trachea, esophagus, eyes, and soft tissues of the neck. Prong collars “work” because they are painful. In contrast, loose leash training and no-pull harnesses are painless solutions that allow everyone (human and canine) to enjoy their walks!

Walking at Your Side is Awesome (and Your Dog Should Know it)!

      One of the ways to encourage loose leash walking is to train your dog that walking by your side is more rewarding than pulling forward. To do this, keep a handful of tasty treats in your pocket or a training bag. Start your walk by showing your dog that you have these treats. Put a treat in your hand and hold it down at your side. When your dog comes to your side, give him the treat and give him lots of praise! Then continue on your walk. Whenever your dog walks by your side, give him a treat and lots of praise. When he begins to show this behavior consistently, add a cue (such as “with me”). Start by using this cue when he goes to your side. Use the cue before you give him the treat. Eventually, your dog will associate the cue with walking by your side. 

References

Steinker, A & Tudge, N. (2012). Choke and prong collars: Health concerns call for equipment change in dog training. The Pet Professional Guild, Barks From The Guild, Autumn 2012. Retrieved from: http://ppgworldservices.com/2014/03/01/choke-and-prong-collars-health-concerns-call-for-equipment-change-in-dog-training/

Introduction to Recall

      Recall is another name for the command, “come.” It is one of the most important commands that your dog will learn! Recall can save your dog’s life, keep them from entering a dangerous situation, and prevent them from getting lost!  

Recall needs to be fun, so your dog WANTS to come to you!

A Command is Like a Bank Account!

      When teaching a dog any command, it is helpful to think of a command like a bank account. You can make deposits and withdrawals to the bank account. For a dog, verbal praise is like adding some change to the bank account. Food rewards are like a paycheck because they are more reinforcing. The higher the value of the treat, the larger the paycheck. Generally, smelly, high-calorie treats like cheese and liver are considered “higher value” than hard treats like dry dog biscuits. But the value of the treat is determined by the individual dog’s personal preference. Finding that special “high value” treat for your dog is an important part of dog training! Toys, games, and walks can also be reinforcing for dogs and can all be considered deposits.

      A withdrawal is anything that your dog considers unpleasant. For example, calling your dog over to take a bath can be like taking a huge withdrawal out of the “recall bank account!” It is important to avoid withdrawals as much as possible, because it is important to keep your account balance above zero!

Generalizing

      Generalizing is the ability to apply learned information to different situations. Humans are excellent at generalizing! For example, if you learn to change a tire in front of your house on a sunny day, you will probably still know how to change a tire in the pouring rain in a different city in the middle of the night. Dogs are not very good at generalizing. If a dog learns to sit in a puppy class, he may not know how to do it at the dog park or even at home! This can be very frustrating for dog owners, as they may feel like their dog isn’t listening or didn’t learn the command after all. It is important to remember that this is a normal part of dog training. We can help our dogs learn to generalize commands by practicing the command in many different situations. At first, it may feel as though you have to reteach the command over and over. Again, this is a normal process. Be patient and reward the desired behavior. Eventually, you will see your dog start to understand the command in new situations. This is important for recall, because you never know when or where you might need it!

How to Begin

       Start in a distraction-free environment so that your dog can focus on you. When your puppy is approaching you, say their name and the word, come. Remember to only say the command once! We do not want the command to be “Fido, come, come, COME!” When your dog gets to you, make a huge fuss. Praise and give treats! We want our dogs to know that coming to us is a good thing! You can motivate your dog to come to you by waving a toy, running around, or showing him a treat. Be exciting!

 

Be exciting so your dog RUNS to you when you call! 

Play a Game!

    Have someone help you play this fun recall game. Have the other person sit on the floor and hold your dog. Walk a few feet away and sit on the floor. Act really exciting! Use a happy tone of voice, wave your arms around, slap the floor, and say your dog’s name in a playful tone of voice. Then, when your dog is paying attention and your partner is ready, say COME! As soon as you say come, have your partner release your dog. Your dog will come rushing to you! Praise and give lots of treats when your dog gets to you! You can repeat this game back and forth a few times, alternating who holds the dog. Just make sure to end the game before your dog gets tired or bored.

Recall Do’s and Don’ts

• DO reward your dog every time they come when called!
• DON’T ever punish your dog for coming to you, even if it took them awhile to come to you! Remember, punishing your dog for coming to you is like taking a huge withdrawal out of their “recall bank account!”
• DO avoid calling your dog to do unpleasant things whenever possible. For example, try not to call your dog to a bath or to go to the vet. Instead, calmly go get them.
• DON’T ever call your dog to a time-out!
• DO call your dog when they are playing with others and allow them to go back to playing (use a phrase like “okay, go play”) so that they don’t learn that come at the dog park means that they are going home.
• DON’T chase your dog when trying to get them to come. Chase is a very fun and rewarding game for dogs!
• DO have your dog chase YOU! If you are having trouble getting your dog to come to you, turn the other way and run! You will become more interesting, and your dog will likely chase you!
• DON'T expect your dog to come to you in distracting environments until you have worked on recall in distraction-free environments!
• DO practice in fenced yards and indoors until your dog has a reliable recall. 

Don't let your dog off-leash outside until you are confident in her recall!

Effective Time-Outs

      Every dog can be naughty sometimes! Effective time outs are a great way to redirect bad behavior and give the dog a “mental break” so that they can calm down and try a more appropriate behavior later. Effective time-outs and warnings can also communicate expectations for good behavior and give dogs the chance to make “better choices.”

"Naughty? Who, Me? Never! I am always perfect!"

            A time-out can be given in any neutral space with fun things (like treats and toys) removed. A small room such as a bathroom is a perfect place for a time-out spot. Just make sure that any item that could be chewed or played with (such as toilet paper) is safely out of the dog’s reach. An exercise pen is another great option for a time-out spot. Crates can also be used for time-outs, as long as the dog has more positive experiences in the crate than bad experiences. Note: it is especially important to remain calm when placing your dog in a time-out, especially if you are going to use a crate as a time-out spot! A leash tied to a door or post can also be used as a time-out spot. Just be aware that some dogs may chew on the leash. Bitter apple can be sprayed on the leash to discourage chewing. Be creative. You may not have your usual time-out spot available if you aren't at home. This doesn't mean you can't use time-outs! The back of a car on a cool day or a leash tied to a tree or post can make perfect time-out spots. Just make sure your dog is safe (don't leave them in a hot car please!). It is the removal from the situation and the removal of attention that is the key to a success time-out! 

            Time-outs can be used for two different types of behaviors: annoying behaviors and serious behaviors. Annoying behaviors are generally repeated in a short time frame, and pose little danger to the dog or others. Barking, jumping up, and mouthing too rough are all examples of annoying behaviors. Serious behaviors generally pose a danger to the dog or others. Biting, stealing food, knocking people over, and fighting are examples of serious behaviors. Note: in cases of aggression, it is important to remember that we are not punishing the dog, but rather giving them some personal space and a chance to calm down. Never yell at or use physical punishment with a dog that is showing signs of aggression!

Time-out procedure for annoying behaviors:

1.    Give the dog a firm verbal warning for the bad behavior (“Rover, QUIET”). Remember to praise for good behavior!
2. Give a second firm verbal warning if the behavior continues (“Rover, quiet. LAST WARNING”).
3.   If the behavior continues, use a phrase that means the dog is going to time-out (“Rover, that’s it!” or “Rover, you lose!”)
4.  Calmly lead the dog by the collar to their time-out spot. Do not yell or physically punish the dog. Do not chase the dog. Chase can turn into a rewarding game. Instead, if your dog tries to run or avoid you, approach calmly until you can grab them. Sometimes it is easier to gently grab their back hips.
5.  It is VERY important that you follow through with your last warning and time-out phrase! These commands will hold power if used consistently! After a few time-outs, many dogs will start to hear the phrase “LAST WARNING” and stop the behavior because they have learned that if they continue, they will get a time-out! This type of training helps communicate expectations for good behavior and allows the dog to “make good choices!”
6.   A time-out for an annoying behavior lasts for about 5 minutes. If the dog barks, whines, scratches, or tries to escape their time-out, then the time starts over. DO NOT RELEASE YOUR DOG FROM A TIME-OUT UNTIL THEY ARE CALM! This is very important! If you release your dog from a time-out when they are fussing, then they will learn that is how to get out of a time-out. Remember that being released from a time-out is a reward! Reward calm behavior!
7.  When the dog is calm, release them from the time-out.

Time-out procedure for serious behaviors:  Skip the first two warnings, use the time-out phrase, and take them straight to a time-out. Remember to remain calm. Follow steps 4-7. Increase the time in step 6 if needed. For aggressive behaviors, the dog may need more than five minutes to calm down. For serious but less dangerous behaviors, such as stealing food, a 5 minute time-out should be sufficient.

Tips: Use specific phrases to let your dog know what they are doing wrong. For example, use “quiet” when your dog is barking and “off” when your dog jumps up. Try to avoid simply saying no for every bad behavior!

Remember to be consistent. Use the same amount of warnings for each time for annoying behaviors. If you use a different number of warnings each time, the dog will go for the higher number of warnings. Again, it is VERY important that you follow through with your last warning and time-out phrase! These commands will hold power if used consistently! After a few time-outs, many dogs will start to hear the phrase “LAST WARNING” and stop the behavior because they have learned that if they continue, they will get a time-out! 

When paired with positive reinforcement for good behaviors, effective time-outs can help communicate expectations for good behavior and allow the dog to “make good choices!”